FAQs

Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–4:30 PM. We’re closed daily for lunch from 12:00–12:30 PM, closed Fridays 12:00–1:00 PM, and closed weekends and holidays.

Yes — our technicians install, maintain, and repair plumbing fixtures including tank, tankless and hybrid water heaters, but we no longer do central heating or HVAC.

Sales/Parts (650) 323-8421 is for fixture and showroom questions; Service (650) 323-8415 is for scheduling repairs or installation.

Leave the house immediately, avoid flipping switches or using your phone indoors, and call your gas utility’s emergency line and a licensed plumber once you’re safely outside.

Turn the shut-off valve behind the toilet clockwise to stop the water, then use a plunger. If water keeps rising, lift the float inside the tank to stop the fill cycle.

Check the pilot light or breaker for your water heater first. If it keeps tripping or you smell gas, turn off the unit and call a professional.

Most homes have it near the water meter, in the basement, or where the main line enters the house. Knowing its location lets you stop water flow instantly in an emergency.

A half-inch pipe break can release over 500 gallons of water per hour, so minutes matter — shutting off the main valve quickly is the most important first step.

We install smart water monitors/automatic shut off valves and emergency earthquake gas shut-offs to help prevent a variety of plumbing emergencies.

A higher-than-usual bill is one of the most common signs of a hidden leak — often in a toilet flapper, an underground pipe, or an irrigation line

Yes. Even a slow drip can rot wood framing, grow mold, and stain ceilings over weeks or months, so it’s worth fixing early.

Usually a worn washer, O-ring, or valve seat inside the faucet. The fix is typically inexpensive, though the exact part depends on your faucet’s brand and style.

Look for warped paint, peeling wallpaper, or musty smells, and check your water meter with all fixtures off — if it’s still moving, water is escaping somewhere in the system.

A slab leak is a leak in the pipes running under your home’s concrete foundation. Left alone, it can undermine the foundation and cause major damage, so it needs prompt professional attention.

Many policies cover sudden, accidental leaks but exclude damage from long-term neglect. Check your policy details and document the issue with photos before repairs begin.

It’s almost always a worn or misaligned flapper letting water leak from the tank into the bowl. Flappers are inexpensive and easy to replace.

A partial clog further down the line — often grease, hair, or soap scum buildup — may need a drain snake or professional hydro-jetting to clear fully.

They can be harsh on pipes, especially older or PVC piping, and dangerous if mixed with other chemicals. A plunger, snake, or professional cleaning is usually the safer choice.

Use drain strainers to catch hair and food debris, avoid pouring grease down the sink, and run hot water after each use to help keep pipes clear.

Grease cools and hardens inside pipes, gradually narrowing them and trapping other debris until the line clogs completely.

It’s likely jammed. Turn off power, try the reset button, and check underneath with the hex wrench that came with the unit — never put your hand inside.

Smart toilets, like the Toto Washlet or Neorest, offer warm-water bidet (front and back), heated seat, air dryer, automatic flush and lid open/close, among other features.

A well-maintained toilet can last 25–30 years, though internal parts like the flapper and fill valve usually need replacing every 5 years or so.

It usually means the wax ring seal has failed or the bolts at the base have loosened — both can lead to leaking at the floor if not addressed.

Older low-flow toilets, flushing non-flushable wipes or excess paper, or a partial blockage in the trap or line further down are common culprits.

Modern low-flow toilets use 1.28 gallons per flush or less, versus 3.5+ gallons in older models, which can meaningfully cut water bills without sacrificing performance.

Most tank water heaters last 8–12 years. If yours is approaching that age or producing rust-colored water, it’s worth having it inspected.

120°F is generally recommended — hot enough for comfort while reducing scald risk and standby energy loss.

Sediment buildup at the bottom of the tank causes water to trap and boil under the layer, creating popping sounds.

It could be an undersized tank for your household, a failing heating element, or sediment buildup reducing usable capacity.

As a general guide, a 40–50 gallon tank suits 2–3 people, while larger households or multi-bathroom homes often need 50–80 gallons or a tankless system.

A tankless unit heats water on demand as it flows through, rather than storing and continuously heating a tank, which saves energy and space and provides continuous hot water.

Well-maintained tankless units can last 15-20 years — often more than the lifespan of a traditional tank water heater.

Yes — an annual descaling flush (more often in hard water areas) prevents mineral buildup inside the heat exchanger and keeps the unit running efficiently.

It depends on the unit’s flow rate and your simultaneous demand. A plumber can help size the right unit, or recommend two units, for multi-bathroom homes.

Gas tankless units need proper venting to safely exhaust combustion gases, and electric units sometimes require an electrical panel upgrade — both are reasons professional installation matters.

It’s a filter installed where the main line enters your home, treating all the water used in the house. It’s worth considering if you’re concerned about sediment, chlorine taste, or contaminants.

Certain filtration media, like activated carbon and high-quality under-the-sink filters, are effective at reducing PFAS.

A softener removes minerals (calcium and magnesium) that cause hardness, while a filter targets contaminants, sediment, chlorine, or odors. Many homes benefit from both.

Signs include white scale on faucets and showerheads, soap that doesn’t lather well, spots on dishes, and dry skin or hair after washing.

Tree roots seeking moisture, grease buildup, flushed wipes, and aging or offset pipe joints are the most common causes.

Multiple slow drains at once, gurgling toilets, sewage odors, or wet patches in the yard can all indicate a main sewer line issue.

It’s often a clogged aerator or showerhead, a partially closed shut-off valve, or sediment specific to that fixture’s supply line.

It’s usually caused by a sudden valve closure sending a shockwave through the pipes. Water hammer arrestors or securing loose pipes can usually resolve it.

Frequent leaks, discolored water, low pressure, and pipes older than 50 years (especially galvanized steel) are all signs it may be time to repipe.

PEX is flexible and resists freezing and corrosion, copper is durable and long-lasting but pricier, and galvanized steel (common in older homes) corrodes from the inside and is usually due for replacement.

It often points to corroding galvanized pipes or sediment in the water heater. If it persists after running the tap for a minute, have it checked.

Mineral deposits build up inside the aerator screen over time. Unscrewing and cleaning or replacing it usually restores full flow in minutes.

Look for WaterSense-labeled fixtures for efficiency, check the warranty, and consider matching finishes across faucets, showerheads, and hardware for a cohesive look.

Yes — visit our Menlo Park showroom, where our consultants can walk you through options from Kohler, Hansgrohe, House of Rohl, Toto, Grohe, Brizo, Phylrich, Newport Brass, and many others in person.

Our showroom consultants can help you select fixtures for a remodel, and our service technicians handle the installation.

Check the connection for a worn rubber washer or plumber’s tape first. If the leak is from the shower valve itself, it likely needs a professional repair.

Avoid grease, fibrous foods (celery, corn husks), bones, pasta or rice (they expand), coffee grounds, and eggshells, which can dull blades or cause clogs.

Most units last 8–12 years. Frequent jamming, leaking, or unusual noises are signs it may be time for a replacement.

Trapped food particles decompose inside the unit. Running cold water with ice cubes and citrus peels, or a baking soda and vinegar rinse, can help freshen it.

Check the reset button on the bottom of the unit and the circuit breaker first. If it still won’t run, it may have a motor or wiring issue that needs a professional look.

Yes — with average water damage claims now exceeding $12,000, a smart sensor that alerts your phone (or shuts off the water automatically) can prevent costly damage and is increasingly requested by insurers.

It’s a valve installed at your main water line that can automatically close if it detects a leak or unusual flow, stopping water damage even when you’re not home.

They use 2–3 times less energy than standard electric water heaters, though upfront cost and available rebates vary, so it’s worth getting a quote that factors in long-term energy savings.

Rebate programs change frequently and vary by utility and funding availability — ask us about current local and utility rebate programs when you request a quote.

Matter is a smart-home connectivity standard that lets devices from different brands, like leak sensors and smart valves, work together through one app, simplifying smart home setups.

No — they’re a great early-warning tool, but they don’t catch slow corrosion or aging pipe joints the way a hands-on inspection would, so both are valuable together.

Check outdoor faucets and hose bibs for winter damage, inspect your sump pump, and look for slow leaks that may have started during colder months.